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Since animal shelters and humane societies are prime dumping grounds for cats with behavior problems, they should have a realistic and practical view about whether declawing keeps cats in their homes, or creates worse difficulties. API surveyed major shelters and humane societies around the country about their policies on declawing. The American SPCA, Humane Society of the United States, Massachusetts SPCA, Denver Dumb Friends League, San Francisco SPCA, SPCA of Texas, F.L.O.C.K. (For Love of Cats and Kittens, Las Vegas, NV), the AnimalWelfare League (the Midwest's largest humane society, Chicago), and many others are firmly against declawing. Some will not even adopt a cat to a person who intends to declaw him. The SPCA of Los Angeles puts it in no uncertain terms: "We do NOT support, nor condone, the act of declawing cats. It is cruel, unnecessary, and inhumane."
Last but not least . . .
There are a few individuals who will always declaw their cats. Their own convenience and the safety of their belongings is their top priority, and whether or not it causes suffering to the cat is not a significant concern. Fortunately, most people love their feline companions, and want to do what is best for all concerned. If you are one of these, please make the humane choice -- do not declaw!
The Surgery
The cat is put under general anesthesia and the toes prepared with antiseptic soap. A tourniquet is placed on the cat's leg just under the elbow and tightened to prevent excessive bleeding. In the scalpel technique, the surgeon grips the tip of the claw with a hemostat, and use the scalpel to carve out the third toe bone, cutting through the skin and severing skin, ligaments, tendons, nerves, and blood vessels. In the guillotine blade technique, a sterilized veterinary nail clipper is used to cut the tissues instead. A scalpel may be used to remove the last piece. The wound is then closed with sutures or surgical glue. Bandages are usually applied. While the veterinary profession is finally recognizing the need to control the severe post-operative pain that accompanies declawing, pain medications are not always provided.
Scratching Solutions
1) Scratching Post
Essential for every cat, providing the right surface to scratch is the key to living with claws. Contrary to the usual selection available at the pet store, those short little carpeted scratching posts are not very attractive to cats. A good scratching post is at least 3 feet high, to allow an adult cat to stretch completely. Sisal rope is often a better choice for covering than carpet. The post must be very sturdy and stable. If it wobbles, your cat won't use it. Commercial posts may be expensive; but you can find plans for easy-to-make posts on the Internet or in many cat books. Don't be too quick to re-cover or discard a shabby, well-worn post -- that's when they are most cat-attractive! Some cats prefer plain softwood; perhaps it most closely approximates the tree bark they would normally use in nature. A log, tree branch, or plank of 1 x 6 redwood may do the trick. Inexpensive cardboard scratchers that lie on the floor at great for cats who go for area rugs or other horizontal surfaces. Be sure to replace them periodically so they provide an adequate anchor and resistance to the claws. If your cat likes catnip, rubbing the post with it, or using catnip spray, will be an extra incentive to scratch in the right place. Location is very important; start with the post near kitty's favorite scratching object, and gradually move it to its final destination.
2) Sticky Paws (
www.stickypaws.com)
Similar to double-sided transparent tape, Sticky Paws is applied directly to the item your cat is scratching, such as front of the sofa. It has a special adhesive that does not hurt the furniture, but feels disgusting to the cat's sensitive paw pads. It may need to be replaced every 6 weeks or so as dust and hair accumulate and cover the sticky surface; but for many cats, one or two applications is enough to dissuade them permanently. A 24-foot roll sell for about $10. Sticky Paws is a good way to get your cat to quit using the furniture and try the post instead.
3) Soft Paws (
www.softpaws.com)
These are blunt plastic caps that slide on over the claws. The cat will still scratch, but can do no damage. Of your cat is amenable to having her feet handled, these may be a perfect solution for you. The caps can be applied by your veterinarian the first time, but you should be able to replace them as they fall off; usually in 4 to 6 weeks. One box (40 caps) will provide protection for up to six months for less than $20. They come in fashionable colors, too!
4) Trimming the Claws
This will not prevent scratching, but it will minimize the damage that kitty can do to fabrics and furniture.
SOURCE : www.api4animals.org